Any more news from the dealer? Hey guys I wonder if you can help me, I have had this problem for about 2 years now but it seems to getting worse over the last few weeks. Happened again 2 they said to up with a little water. Replaced 2 heads on 1. Ok, so I'll try to keep a bottle of coolant in the car just in case the level is going down too much hope not! I'd still like to try get it an inch or so lower, but I'm genuinely happy with it day-to-day. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Checked the level it was the lowest ever, right at the bottom, so topped up with water to the max line no longer flashing coolant low. Phone: +44 161 776 0777 email:.
Some of you experienced similar problems? The water pump was replaced 4 years ago by the dealership under warranty. I was darn glad I had warranty on my car. With everything buttoned up, we started the car and let it idle up to temperature in order to check for leaks or any other issues that might raise their heads. The car runs at normal temperature so hoping it is just the sensor. I better get cracking, so. Just keep an eye on it and a bottle of coolant handy.
I've done quite a few long trips and it's been fine. Some of the experts here could please help me understand what's going on? By stating that, I've made your thread even more informative. There is literally nothing else. Remove the pressure clamp Red Arrow from the connector Yellow Arrow. Removing the coolant reservoir cap on a warm engine could cause the cap to fly off at a high rate of speed and fluid to spray out of the reservoir.
But they just changed one or two little parts no big job done. Edit2: another point to make. Uli666 My car had a porous block and needed a new engine. It is close to engine block on top of transmission housing. Some coolants will come premixed-that is, you don't need to add any water. You never get water to oil contamination on these engines so mayo on the oil cap won't occur and oil in the water is usually a failed oil cooler as oppose to the gasket. Yes, there is no problem reusing the original clamps when putting the hoses back on.
Yes, I'll ask my mechanics to do a pressure test next week. They changed that pipe, but the coolant level is still getting low going slightly under the min mark in about a week of usage and I still found some drops of liquid under the car. A great many of these car have had the engine trays and front side panels removed over the years and not replaced. I'm quite worried about it and I would like to understand how would be possible to solve the problem. So opening the cap when it's hot is not only dangerous but it would cause the water inside the expansion bottle to expand. If that makes contact with your skin, you'll literally melt your hand.
After work on the cooling system it can take a little time for it to settle to a level as there can be small pockets of air. It might be worth checking these things out too. I have been unscrewing the cap when the engine is hot many times since this problem first began a couple of years ago. December 15, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The sensor is specific to your vehicle. Called them up and they said it's probe air in the system and should sort itself out. As water will heat faster than oil, this factory heat exchanger allows coolant to flow through it in order to help oil temperatures increase from a cold start.
I've never come across a cracked head on a 1. If you are finding that you get hissing when the engine is cold when you remove the expansion bottle cap then you have a problem and the system is not pressuring and depressuing properly. Had new cambelt and waterpump 10,000 miles ago. Proper real world builds like this that get used as they should are by far the best thing about Speedhunters and they are what got me hooked and make me read before going to sleep most nights all those years ago. The system is under pressure.
Tested it with a coolant tester and it says just below -30 so -35ish but doesn't say up what degrees here is a pic as i don't understand it hope someone else does. You'll be all right for your trip, just have some coolant handy to top up with if you need it. Either way seems like your way is much easier. No obvious leaks or anything. Fluid on the ground was pink, so I'm pretty sure is coolant and not air con discharge. Be sure to check your owners manual to determine the correct type of fluid to add - for Volkswagens, it will typically be in a section titled Fluid Capacities in the back of your manual. Anyway I still consider the problem unsolved, so I'll try to contact my mechanics again to see what he can do to fix it.
I also has a leak from the Temperature Sensor as the plastic U thing had coroded again this was found following the dried up anti freeze up the engine block? I have removed the battery and tray to get better pictures but you do not need to remove these to perform this work. I drive short journeys in heavy traffic mainly. It turned out to be a tiny crack in one of the connectors joining the heater hoses at the back of the engine, above the exhaust, just after they come out of the bulkhead. Because of this, I spent a lot of time researching what my options were. We obviously changed the oil filter and oil during the process, and as far as I remember, the car only required maybe an extra litre of oil. Finally been able to locate the leak. Now a small update: after using the car yesterday, this morning I checked again and I didn't find any drop on the floor, car underneath was dry and the fluid level was even a little higher!?! Anyways, I'm glad to see that others have similar issues, but I would be surprised that my car with such low mileage would actually have a leak! Is it risky to go on driving the car in this condition? European vehicle's require a specialized from Audi, Porsche, or Volkswagen.
Ive got an appointment for this friday to have it looked at and i mean replaced but im starting to think the problem may lay deeper. Mix the coolant with distilled water so that you have a combination of 50% coolant and 50% water. If the level is being set correctly and it's not burning it internally then it must be leaking somewhere or evaporating out of the coolant cap. The larger heat exchanger is approximately 10mm taller than the previous one, allowing it to hold more coolant while also having a larger surface area inside to transfer heat from the oil to the coolant. Cheers The leak has been diagnosed as a coolant leak coming out of the thermostat housing. If it's dropping it is leaking somewhere.